Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Saturday, December 27, 2025

Circling the Landing




At the end of the year, reflection is de rigueur. Calendars close. Rituals repeat. Regrets become bygones. People speak in the language of fresh starts and clean slates, as if January can erase what the body remembers. If only. ’Tis the season of good intentions and manifestations. It is the season of hope. This year, I find myself holding on to hope out of habit but seeking something more sturdy. I'm scanning for solid ground to land on.

For the last eighteen years, Christmas centered around my daughter. Never a fan of commercialism, our holidays focused on activity together—exploring the melding of Islam and Christianity in Malta; dancing with Chiang Rai hill tribes and wandering Buddhist temples with Colin; learning to ski in Braunwald; Māori feasts and climbing volcanoes in New Zealand; singing carols in St. Patrick’s Cathedral; or catching first powder tracks in Breckenridge and Jackson—all before French toast and bacon. Each day ended the same way: reading new books by the fire. When your family is just two, Christmas becomes about doing something together you might not otherwise do. It is a time for that elusive and often underrated sacred pause.

This year’s Christmas was quiet. Contemplative. Solitary.

For months now, I have felt myself circling, like the hawks I watch ride the updrafts near the cliffs by Hublein Tower—moving in wide arcs above ground that does not yet feel safe to touch, surveying the landscape, peering into the shadows, all while yearning to touch the sky. Anyone who has flown knows the sensation: the plane keeps turning while conditions below remain unclear. From inside the cabin, the mix of fear and impatience can feel interminable. From the cockpit, however, it is deliberate. Circling is not failure; it is judgment. It is what pilots do when visibility is compromised and a forced  landing could cause harm. Better to wait. Better to get everyone safely home.

Home, I’ve realized, is not a place I failed to find. Home was wherever I was with my daughter. I endeavored to make the journeys themselves our home—to make home a state of mind. When I am asked why I never settled, or reminded that I “made my choices,” this is what comes to mind. I notice the urge to ask why those who say it  allowed themselves to settle, to stagnate, and to grow complacent. I never actually say that out loud. I wonder why some feel it is ok to comment at all. What I know instead is this: after living all over the world, I am skilled at making a home wherever I find myself. Home is not a destination. It is a practice I returned to—sometimes in motion, sometimes in exile, sometimes circling while waiting for permission to land.

We like to tell ourselves that home equals permanence. But permanence is an illusion we allow ourselves so that we feel in control. I learned young what that saying about the best laid plans really means. Coming back to my hometown this year was not a sentimental homecoming. It was a re-entry—a full-circle return after decades of movement. The streets are familiar. The geography is known. There is comfort in that. There are memories around every corner. And yet everything feels subtly altered, as though I had been living in a parallel version of my life and only now crossed back through a thin seam. When I see people I knew in my youth, I am startled by how little they resemble my memory. Then I catch my reflection and remember how much time has passed.

I have lived through uncertainty before—my dad’s ten year cancer journey, Colin’s coma, job loss, war zones, flood evacuations—real danger—and I always believed there would be a safe landing. Learning to sit inside uncertainty is one of life’s harder disciplines. This year has felt like sustained turbulence: no clear altitude, no horizon, no reliable sense of when or how it will end. Like flying inside storm clouds, I have often lost my sense of up and down. What I understand now is that circling cannot last forever. Fuel is finite.

In 2007, I gave birth alone, knowing that I would. I prepared for it like I would have a championship lacrosse game. There were doctors and nurses, of course, but they were doing their jobs. I was bringing a new life into the world. It was powerful. Primal. Sacred. It was April in Aspen—shoulder season, heavy wet snow falling hard enough to close the runway. If something went wrong, there would be no quick flight to a larger hospital. Labor was long. There was meconium. Real risk. Birth plan altered. In the wee hours my daughter arrived quietly and was handled with urgency and care.




The morning after her birth, holding my tiny daughter in my arms, I looked out the hospital window and saw a red fox flash across the bright white snow. It paused—vivid and poised—long enough to meet my gaze before trotting away with a swish of its bushy tail. I noticed it then, and I remember it now. In both Japanese and Irish traditions, the fox is a guide at thresholds, a creature that moves between worlds—spirit and human, wilderness and settlement—without belonging fully to either. It survives through attention, timing, and discernment rather than force. The fox did not linger. It did not look back. It crossed the snow cleanly and disappeared. Its presence felt as if it was noting a crossing already underway. I turned back to the new life in my arms, knowing I would be learning how to guide her across many such thresholds myself.


I turned back to my daughter and named her Niamh—after the princess of Tír na nÓg, the land of youth in Irish mythology. She is the woman who rides over the sea on a white horse, crossing between worlds, choosing both love and adventure for herself over safety and stasis. In the old stories, waves are often described as white horses, carrying her between realms. Tír na nÓg is a place without aging or decay—a place of vitality, courage, and belonging. It held all the things I wanted for my daughter. When Niamh was small, she believed completely that she was that princess. I read her the story so often it lived in her bones. Even her name carries a crossing—Niamh, sounding like nieve, the Spanish word for snow.  She is of the sea and of the snow. A child born between elements. And she is most at home in both.




A week earlier, heavily pregnant, I had stayed alone in a hut at Snowmass Monastery. I slept. I meditated. I prepared. Each evening I waddled past elk in the fields to the stone chapel where I let myself be carried away by the somatic power of monks chanting vespers. I had very little. I had no plan. I was dismissed by my child’s father, by my employer, by my family. And still, I believed all would be well—not because the ground was safe, but because I trusted myself and the love I already felt for the life that was making its way toward me.  

When people speak easily about “the choices we make,” they often imagine a level runway and plenty of fuel. They imagine a warm car waiting in the pickup lane, smiling faces at the arrivals gate. They assume time, support, and room for error. But some decisions are made while circling, with incomplete information and very little margin. In those moments, choice looks less like preference and more like responsibility. You do what you must. You keep flying because you are accountable for the life you are carrying and the future you are trying to protect. Much of my life has been shaped by decisions made under those conditions. I chose love. I chose courage. Not because they were ideal options, but because they were the ones available to me.

In recent years, in the days before Christmas, my daughter and I added Love Actually to our holiday movie playlist. Much of the film is outdated fluff—power imbalances disguised as romance, longing framed as virtue, waiting to be chosen. But the candid opening and closing scenes at Heathrow arrivals have always moved me. Real people filmed without performance. Faces lighting up as loved ones appear. We don’t know their histories or their fractures. What we see is simple and true: people choosing to show up. We are reminded of the privilege it is to be present for someone—and the good fortune to have someone be present for you.

Over time, I’ve learned that love isn’t proven by endurance or by how long someone tolerates absence. It’s revealed by who arrives, and how, without keeping a ledger or demanding something in return. Love, at its most honest, is choosing to show up. Again and again. 

When my daughter was small, we watched Brave on repeat. She loved Merida’s fierce independence. I was drawn to the mother who learns—too late and painfully—how easily protection becomes control. Current circumstances make me wonder if the film was fate’s foreshadowing. In that tale, the mother becomes a bear not as punishment, but through her own fear and misunderstanding. The spell breaks not through conquest, but through recognition.

I have seen bears up close. A grizzly crossed my path on Mother’s Day last spring as I walked around Jackson Lake—massive, alert, looking for food and uninterested in dominance. At that same moment, my daughter was in the sky above, crossing a continent and an ocean back to her father’s home—Ireland. The bear did not charge or retreat. It ambled across my path while I held my breath. Strength does not always announce itself as danger. Sometimes it arrives as a reminder of what we contain within us.

I once heard that some Indigenous peoples believe when humans move too fast, the body can arrive before the soul, and the soul needs time to catch up. I believe this is true. I have felt it myself. I have lived much of my life in motion, crossing borders and systems, always adapting, always arriving efficiently. I never learned how to arrive whole as some part of me was always left behind. Perhaps this season of circling is not failure but reintegration. I was drawn to return here perhaps because this is where my soul knows how to find its origin point. Perhaps pieces scattered across years and places are finally being given time to find their way home to me.

When some say that I made my choices, I don’t disagree. I chose love. I chose courage. I chose to keep showing up without keeping score. I am not here because my journey failed. I am here because journeys sometimes pause.  If there is a landing ahead, it will be because conditions changed. Until then, I will keep circling—not in indecision, but in care. Scanning the landscape for a clearing. Not as a performance, but as a witness. Not as a plea to be chosen, but as a refusal to disappear.

At the end of this year—this year of the snake—this is what I know: I am still here. I am telling the truth in a form that can hold it. I am allowing time for all of me to arrive. And I will keep showing up, because that is what I can do.

 




Monday, February 15, 2016

Kamoro Tribe, Mware

          Our school went to visit one of the local Kamoro tribes last week.  If you have read or seen Guns, Germs, and Steel by Jared Diamond, you may be familiar with the tribes in Papua, New Guinea that he interacted with and based his theories of the roots of inequality upon. We met with the distant cousins of those tribes here in West Papua, with the help of a man named Kal Muller. Like Diamond, Muller has lived with and studied the tribes here for decades. He has done much to educate people about the Kamoro way of life and the challenges the people face due to encroachment on their territory.  
        Diamond shares an anecdote about a tribal man asking him, thirty year ago, why the white men have so much 'cargo'.  Fair question. When foreigners first came here, the fact they had so much sophisticated cargo gave them a sense of power and supremacy over the tribes. Diamond explains his theory of geographic luck--how some civilizations have thrived simply because they were born into a place that enabled them to do so. He maintains that racial supremacy has nothing to do with it and that the tribes have had to use tremendous ingenuity to overcome great challenges to survive here in this jungle.  Diamond asserts that he could never survive the jungle without the help of the tribes and after spending a day watching them work--I have to agree. 
Niamh using an adze to pound the Sago.
Tequila chaser needed
We watched the step-by-step process of turning pith of the Sago palm into pulp. Sago starch is a staple of the Kamoro diet and the process we were shown requires some endurance.  Some of us sampled a tribe delicacy, mollusc-like creatures called Tambelo,  found by splitting logs in half. The succulent Tambelo killed my appetite so I passed on the meal of fish and crab that had been slow-cooked over a smoky fire.  

The log where the Tambelo treats are found



Not only did the tribe show us how they make their  food, they also demonstrated  how they weave and carve.  There was a lot to see and it was incredibly hot and muggy and smoky and crowded. Sensory overload kicked in sometime after the Tambelo incident. I had to step back for a bit and just observe.  When I did so I realized that the local kids, the ones who weren't involved in the spectacle, were watching us--the sweaty, pink-faced, over-dressed folks--as much as we were watching them. The security and police that were sent to protect us had their cameras out too.  
Wood Carvers at work

As I stood there,  I thought about Jared Diamond's theory about haves and have-nots and about being born lucky.  Tomorrow the tribe will not be in their grass skirts and headdresses. That was for us, to share their world with us. These people, this tribe, they know who they are, they know where they are from. Who's to say who the haves or have-nots are anyway, really? 



new friend


Friday, February 12, 2016

Papuan Perspective

Kuala Kencana, Papua, Indonesia


















Kuala Kencana, Papua, Indonesia  is our latest port of call. We have been here for a few months now. It is a remote, surreal, fascinating and challenging part of the world.  Recently, our school had an outing to a local Papuan School. The excursion provided much needed perspective on life here. We live in a purpose built town, erected by the American mining company its inhabitants are all here to serve in one capacity or another. Our school is one of the most well-resourced schools I have ever worked for on the international circuit. We just don't have many students.




The Papuan school we visited was one example of what the mining company for which I work does for community outreach. The school is funded by the company and the children who attend come from various tribes in both the lowlands and the highlands of Papua. They all board there and so once they go to the school they will not see much of their families again. The students ranged in age from kindergarten to high school. They slept in bunk rooms with as many as 20 per room. The rooms for housing and learning were clean and simple but well equipped enough for learning to take place. The children welcomed us a bit coyly but seemed eager and proud to show us their school.

The hope is that our school and their school can begin a meaningful exchange over the course of the school year.  Watching my daughter interact with the Papuan students made all the stress, sweat, loneliness and tears of the past months fade a bit. She declared that this was the best day yet since we moved to Papua in October ( there have been many sad days).  It was the happiest I have seen her. An hour into the visit she had a new best friend named Fani.   I know she won't remember all the trips and adventures of her childhood but I hope that somewhere in her soul she will hold that feeling she had this day--that is the excitement of overcoming linguistic and cultural barriers and finding a new friend. After all, this is why we live this nomadic life.









Sunday, February 7, 2016

Where I'm From...

6 Hartwell Rd


















I have been thinking a lot about Home lately. Home and what it means to have one. It's not just watching the news about the Syrian refugees that has triggered this. It's personal too. My mom died suddenly back in August. She was 80. She had been fairly healthy and then she had a stroke and that was the end. I think she would have chosen to go like that. Quick and painless. My Dad died nearly 25 years ago. So within weeks of her death, her house, our family home since 1964, was cleared out, put on the market and sold-- a lifetime of memories gone. Just like that.  If you are prone to pondering like me, this sort of thing makes you question everything.

I have been traveling all over the world for years, using teaching as a means to do so. I will share some truths I have learned on my travels in this blog eventually.   Throughout all my travels, I have never stopped thinking about that house at 6 Hartwell as my home. Even though I haven't lived there in decades and despite the fact that it wasn't the happiest of homes, it was still the place that made me who I am today. Knowing where I am from and what made me who I am, has made the rootlessness of my nomadic life easier to bear. So what happens now that my home of homes doesn't exist anymore?

And what of my daughter?  She is nearly 9. She has already lived in 6 countries and spent considerable time in many more. How will she define home? What can she say when she is asked the question, 'So where are you from?'  Since her father is Irish and I am American she usually says she is from Ireland and America-- yet she has hardly lived in either country. And so to the bigger question--Does it matter?  People often tell me that my daughter's home is with me. But what if that isn't quite enough? In my daughter's experience, you can fly to almost anywhere in the world, get off the plane and find someone you know there. She is truly a third culture kid. Seems Cool. But I can't shake the feeling that one needs to have a sense of Place to have a sense of Self.  Where are you from? I am inclined to think that knowing the answer to that question matters a lot. I am sure there is some truth to those sayings that home is where the heart is but I am beginning to think that whoever coined that term never felt truly without a home.

My mother's birthday was a few days ago. We had not celebrated any birthdays together, hers or mine, in some years. We had been estranged. But this one, well, I missed her. I felt the loss in my solar plexus. She was a teacher. She always told me I should write so, in honor of what would have been her 81st birthday, I am finally writing my first post.   Should anyone who knows me read this, they might scoff and say--but you ran away! You went off to explore! You hadn't seen your mother in years! Those people would be correct. But they don't know everything. They don't know why and they don't know the cost. I could never find a way to explain how I missed home every single day and in every single place I have lived. In my search to find words for this, I came across this word: hiraeth.

Maybe my feelings of hiraeth have more to do with turning 45 and finding myself in my 9th international teaching job posting and finding I can fit all my worldly possessions in a few suitcases as well.   Some say, ah you are really living free. No possessions to tie you down.  And yes that is true. But what I imagine most feel as those mid-life doubts begin to crop up, is that they haven't done and seen enough of what they once dreamed when they were young. For most, the idea of randomly moving to a new country every year is so daunting they would never dream of trying it. It is commonplace for me. And now, as I reach the supposed pinnacle of life, I find the thing that has been just out of reach for me is that-- settling down. The word settle always had a negative connotation to me. You're settling for what life has handed out and making it work. Now I see that as the ultimate challenge and achievement. I am ready now to make my own home, for myself and my daughter. But before I do, I want to take time to reflect on all the adventures that have got us to this point. I have a lot of ground to cover. Watch this space.

My mom and I in 1972